How to Care for Cashmere (Without Ruining It)

The first cashmere jumper I ever bought cost me a hundred and twenty pounds, which felt absolutely extravagant at the time. I wore it exactly twice before those horrible little bobbles started appearing all over the sleeves and sides. Within a month, it looked shabby and worn despite having cost more than my entire winter wardrobe combined. I was furious with myself for wasting money on something that clearly wasn’t worth it.

Except it wasn’t the jumper’s fault. It was mine. I’d been treating cashmere like any other jumper, washing it wrong, storing it carelessly, and wearing it under rough jackets that created constant friction. Once I learned how to actually care for cashmere properly, I realised that expensive jumper could have lasted for years. I’d just destroyed it through ignorance.

If you’ve invested in cashmere and you’re worried about keeping it looking good, or if you’ve already noticed pilling and damage, let me share what I’ve learned about caring for this delicate fabric properly.

Understanding Why Cashmere Is So Delicate

Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, primarily from Mongolia and Kashmir. The fibres are incredibly fine and soft, which is what makes cashmere feel so luxurious, but this same delicacy makes it vulnerable to damage.

The fibres are much shorter than sheep’s wool, which means they have less natural cohesion in the fabric. When cashmere fibres rub against surfaces or other fabrics, they can tangle together and form those fuzzy balls we call pilling. This isn’t a sign of poor quality necessarily. Even expensive, high-grade cashmere will pill, especially in the first few wears.

What makes quality cashmere different is that it’s made from longer fibres that pill less severely and respond better to care. Cheaper cashmere uses shorter fibres that pill more aggressively and wear out faster. But regardless of quality, all cashmere needs proper care to last.

The areas where you’ll see pilling first are predictable. Underarms, where your arms rub against your body. Sides, where bags rest against the fabric. Cuffs and hems that catch on things. Anywhere the fabric creases while worn is prone to pilling rapidly. Understanding this helps you minimise damage through how you wear and store your cashmere.

The Pilling Problem Everyone Faces

I used to think pilling meant my cashmere was rubbish. Now I understand it’s a natural characteristic of the fibre. Pilling is caused by friction when shorter surface fibres tangle and form tiny balls, particularly in high-friction areas.

New cashmere often pills quite noticeably in the first few wears. This is those loose surface fibres working their way out. Once you’ve removed this initial pilling, the garment usually settles down and pills much less frequently. The key is removing pills properly without damaging the underlying fabric.

Never, and I mean never, pull pills off with your fingers. I did this initially, and it makes everything worse. You’ll cause irreparable damage to the knit and wear the garment out much quicker. Each time you yank a pill off, you’re pulling on fibres that are still attached to the fabric, weakening the structure.

Similarly, don’t use scissors or razors. Cashmere is way too delicate for such rough treatment, and you’ll most likely damage the fibres even further. I’ve seen people create actual holes in cashmere trying to cut off pills with scissors. It’s heartbreaking.

The Right Way to Remove Pills

The proper tool for removing cashmere pills is either a cashmere comb or a fabric shaver designed for delicate materials. I use a cashmere comb, which is basically a small wooden block with fine metal mesh. You gently stroke it across the fabric in one direction, and the mesh catches the pills without damaging the underlying fibres.

The technique matters. Use slow, gentle strokes to avoid damaging the fibres, focusing on areas with the most build-up. Don’t press hard or scrub vigorously. Light, patient strokes work best. It takes time, but it’s safe and effective.

Some people prefer electric fabric shavers, which use small rotating blades to cut pills off. These can work well if you choose one specifically designed for delicate fabrics, but they require more care. The wrong shaver or too much pressure can damage cashmere. I personally find combs easier and safer.

Gently de-pill your garment with a cashmere comb before washing it. This removes loose pills that might otherwise spread or tangle during washing. After washing and drying, check again and remove any remaining pills. Regular maintenance like this keeps cashmere looking fresh.

You can buy cashmere combs from places like The Laundress or good department stores. They’re not expensive, usually around fifteen to twenty pounds, and they last for years. If you’ve invested in cashmere, a proper comb is essential.

How to Wash Cashmere Without Destroying It

Washing cashmere properly is crucial, and it’s where most people go wrong. The care label usually says dry clean only, but cashmere can actually be hand washed successfully if you know what you’re doing.

Hand wash in cold water with a mild detergent or baby shampoo, gently press out excess water without wringing, and lay flat to dry. This is the safest method. Never use hot water, which can cause severe shrinkage. Never wring or twist the fabric, which distorts the fibres.

Fill a basin with cool water and add a small amount of specialist wool or cashmere detergent. Regular detergent is too harsh. Baby shampoo works well as an alternative because it’s gentle and designed for delicate fibres. Submerge your cashmere and gently swish it around. Let it soak for about ten minutes.

Drain the soapy water and rinse with fresh cool water until the water runs clear. This might take several rinses. Any detergent left in the fibres can cause damage and stiffness. Press the water out gently, never twist or wring. I usually press the garment against the side of the basin to squeeze water out gradually.

Lay the wet cashmere flat on a clean towel. Roll the towel up with the garment inside and press gently to absorb more water. Then unroll it, reshape the garment carefully to its original dimensions, and lay it flat on a fresh dry towel or a mesh drying rack. Let it dry naturally away from heat and direct sunlight.

Drying can take a day or two. Cashmere needs to dry slowly and completely. Never hang wet cashmere, the weight of the water will stretch it out of shape. Never put it in a tumble dryer, the heat will shrink it catastrophically. Patience is essential.

The Machine Washing Debate

Some people successfully machine wash cashmere, and some modern machines have specific wool or hand-wash cycles that work. But it’s risky. I’ve tried it, and while some jumpers survived fine, others came out slightly felted or misshapen.

If you’re going to attempt machine washing, use the gentlest cycle possible, cold water only, minimal spin, and put the garment in a mesh laundry bag for protection. Use wool-specific detergent. Accept that you’re taking a risk, and don’t try this with your most expensive or precious pieces.

Personally, I hand wash everything cashmere now. It takes more time, but I’ve never had a disaster with hand washing. I’ve had several with machine washing. The peace of mind is worth the extra effort.

Preventing Pilling Through How You Wear Cashmere

The way you wear cashmere significantly affects how much it pills. Wearing it close to the body can avoid friction with other clothes to reduce the chance of pilling. If your cashmere sits loose and rubs against rough outer layers constantly, it will pill aggressively.

Try to match clothes with smooth linings, and avoid wearing hard clothes such as denim over cashmere. A cashmere jumper under a rough wool coat is asking for pilling. A cashmere jumper under a silk-lined jacket is much kinder to the fabric.

Be mindful of what your cashmere rubs against during daily activities. Desk edges, handbag straps, seatbelt fabric, all of these create friction. I’m not saying you should wrap yourself in cotton wool, but awareness helps. I stopped wearing my favourite cashmere cardigan with a cross-body bag after realising the strap was creating a line of pills across my chest.

Rest your cashmere between wears. Cashmere fibres are easy to fatigue, so you should pay attention when putting on or off your garments to let the fibres fully rest. If you wear the same cashmere jumper three days running, it will deteriorate faster than if you rotate between several pieces.

Storage That Protects Your Investment

How you store cashmere matters enormously. Never hang cashmere jumpers on hangers. The weight pulls the shoulders out of shape, creating weird stretched areas that never fully recover. Always fold and store flat.

Fold garments neatly and place them in breathable garment bags, as proper storage helps maintain the structure of the fibres and reduces exposure to friction. I keep my cashmere in a drawer, each piece folded with a sheet of acid-free tissue paper between the layers to prevent friction.

Placing a sheet of paper between garments prevents cashmere-on-cashmere rubbing that causes tangles. Never use old newspapers or magazines as the print transfers. Acid-free tissue paper from craft shops works perfectly and costs very little.

Moths are the other major storage concern. They absolutely love cashmere, and an infestation can destroy your entire collection. Store cashmere in sealed containers or bags with cedar blocks or lavender sachets. These natural repellents help keep moths away.

Make sure everything is completely clean before storing for the season. Moths are attracted to body oils and food stains, so even if your cashmere looks clean, wash it before putting it away for months. I learned this after losing two jumpers to moths because I’d put them away slightly worn.

The Dry Cleaning Question

Despite care labels saying dry clean only, frequent dry cleaning isn’t always best for cashmere. The chemicals used in dry cleaning can be harsh over time, and excessive dry cleaning can make cashmere feel stiff or lose its softness.

I dry clean my cashmere once or twice a season at most, and only if it really needs it. For routine cleaning, I hand wash. For special occasion pieces or complicated garments like structured cashmere coats, I use professional dry cleaning because the construction requires it.

If you do dry clean, choose a cleaner who specifically mentions expertise with cashmere and delicate fabrics. Not all dry cleaners are equally careful. Ask how they handle cashmere and whether they use gentle processes. A good dry cleaner will understand that cashmere needs special treatment.

When Professional Help Makes Sense

Sometimes cashmere needs professional attention beyond basic dry cleaning. If you’ve got severe pilling across a large area, if the garment has lost its shape, if there’s damage like moth holes or snags, professionals can often rescue items that seem beyond hope.

Specialist garment care services can do things home care can’t. They can re-block cashmere to restore its original shape, repair damage invisibly, remove stubborn stains without harming the delicate fibres, and deep clean items that have become dingy over time.

I had a cream cashmere cardigan that had gradually turned grey-ish from city pollution and general wear. I thought it was finished. A specialist cleaner got it back to its original colour through careful treatment that I couldn’t replicate at home. It cost about thirty pounds but saved a cardigan worth considerably more.

Getting Expert Help When You Need It

If you’re in North Finchley or Notting Hill and your cashmere needs professional care, we’d be happy to help at Glint Express. We see cashmere regularly at our North Finchley and Notting Hill branches, and we understand how to handle it properly.

Whether you need dry cleaning for special pieces, advice about caring for damaged items, or just want someone to handle the cleaning while you focus on other things, we’re here. We treat cashmere with the respect it deserves because we know how much these pieces mean to people.

Your cashmere should last for years, potentially decades, if it’s cared for properly. Don’t let fear of damage stop you enjoying these beautiful garments. With the right knowledge and care, cashmere becomes more special over time, not less. And when you need help, we’re here to provide it.